Voices: As grocery prices go up, Salt Lake City needs a community-focused food supply now more than ever

The Trump administration’s recent tariffs on goods from China, Canada and Mexico have brought much speculation around how and when costs may hit our wallets. Products that may be impacted range from laptops, to timber, and — perhaps most notable on a day-to-day basis — food. A loaded topic during the 2024 election, grocery prices are even more at the forefront of consumers’ minds today.

In Utah, the tariffs’ effects on food may be particularly acute, as our state’s top international import partner is Mexico. Produce distributors in Salt Lake City have indicated that Mexico supplies as much as 80% of their inventory. High reliance on international trade for our food supply leaves Utah consumers vulnerable to price swings and sourcing challenges driven by distant decision makers. Given the current atmosphere of uncertainty, now is an ideal moment for Utah to invest in strengthening its local food system.

The American grocery industry is highly concentrated — just four companies generate two-thirds of all sales in the United States — and built with a singular goal in mind: efficiency. That efficiency comes at the cost of resilience. The recent bird flu spread and disease outbreaks in meatpacking facilities during the pandemic have exemplified how small events can send shockwaves through the homogenous system built to minimize costs. Food tariffs may have similar effects.

What’s more: Megastore efficiency may not even always mean lower prices. Because of concentrated market power, retailers can capture an ever-increasing share of the food dollar, squeezing farmers on one end and consumers on the other. Recent spikes in egg prices are not just an outcome of bird flu, they are also driven by the egg industry taking advantage of the opportunity to increase their profits.

But this doesn’t have to be the case: There is an option for local, consumer-driven decision-making that safeguards against the whims of politicians and remote corporate shareholders.

Enter the Wasatch Food Co-op, a grocery store born from a decades-long movement of Salt Lake-area residents who believe we deserve a say in where their food comes from and how it is sold. This momentum has reached a peak in recent months, with the Co-op’s brick-and-mortar store slated to open later this year on central Harvey Milk Blvd (422 E 900 S).

Rather than striving to merely grow shareholder profits, a food co-op is owned by its consumers, called member-owners, each of whom has a vote in how the store is run. Through this democratic business model, co-ops are led by values important to the community, as identified by the member-owners themselves. In the case of the Wasatch Food Co-op, these include strengthening community connections, promoting a more equitable food system, minimizing environmental impact and a strong focus on locally sourced products whenever possible.

Utah and its neighboring states have many small-to-medium farms producing diverse crops and livestock. However, their size and seasonal product availability often exclude them from supplying large grocery chains. Co-ops offer farmers, ranchers and other local vendors a stable avenue for their product, while also providing transparency for consumers on their food’s origins.

In an era of unpredictable economic policies, corporate food systems’ dependence on long-distance sourcing has significant drawbacks for Utah suppliers and consumers alike. As member-owned stores, co-ops are resilient, adapting as needed in order to uphold the values of the consumers they serve. By supporting the local food economy, Salt Lake residents can shield themselves from market fluctuations while simultaneously bolstering our community.

Heleene Tambet is an economist specializing in research on agricultural practices and sustainable land management. She is a member of the Wasatch Food Co-op’s Board of Directors.

Danielle Fisher is a project manager focused on building capacity for community engagement. She is a member of the Wasatch Food Co-op’s Board of Directors.

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