Red Cliffs region: colorful history, coming upgrades

Leeds • Most Interstate-15 travelers zip past the red rock cliffs in northern Washington County as they race to St. George, Mesquite, Las Vegas and Disneyland.

But those who take time to explore places such as the Red Cliffs Recreation Area, the Silver Reef historic area, Catholic and Protestant Cemeteries, an old movie site, pioneer homes, a well-preserved Civilian Conservation Corps camp and even Jurassic-era dinosaur tracks come away surprised by the history and beauty of this place.

What's more, the area is part of the larger 45,000-acre Red Cliffs National Conservation Area that contains 130 miles of trails not available to motorized vehicles and 14 of Utah's newest wilderness areas.

According to Dawna Ferris-Rowley, who managed this and the nearby Beaver Dam Wash National Conservation Areas, these specially-designated Bureau of Land Management areas were part of the Omnibus Public Lands Management Act of 2009, an enormous bill that addressed public lands issues in every state.

"The BLM is the only agency that manages national conservation areas that Congress designates in order to emphasize conservation rather than multiple use," she said. "They include segregations, closures and restrictions to facilitate conservation. They are closed to mining, except for valid existing claims, and closed to oil and gas development. The mission is to conserve, protect and enhance ecological, scenic, cultural, recreation, natural and biological resources."

That said, Washington County's growing population, coupled with those who have discovered the area, resulted in the need for some improved facilities at the Red Cliffs Recreation Area, located 14 miles northwest of St. George just off I-15 near the town of Leeds.

This area, fed by Quail Creek and adjacent to the nearby Cottonwood Canyon Wilderness, contains a 12-unit BLM campground built in the 1960s, a popular hiking trail, and a picnic area shaded by ancient cottonwood trees.

Visitation had increased to 37,000 last year. Kids played in the water crossing the small entrance road, creating a safety hazard. And, when the flash floods came, those crossings became impassable and dangerous.

The campground and day-use areas have been closed since August, but should reopen in the next few weeks.

Improvements • According to Ferris-Rowley, new shade structures, disabled access and barbecue pits have been added to the campground. An entrance station has been added to help regulate crowds, which can be heavy in spring and fall. An additional 22 day-use parking spots will improve the day-use experience on busy weekends.

Camping • Camping, which costs $15 per night, is on a first-come, first-served basis. There is also another large public campground at nearby Quail Creek State Park and several private facilities in Harrisburg.

Hiking • Popular hikes out of the Red Cliffs Recreation Area include wandering into the Cottonwood Canyon Wilderness, with narrow sandstone canyons and potholes that turn into popular wading and swimming holes in the spring.

Dinosaur tracks • There is a short Silver Reef Trail to see 17 Jurassic-age dinosaur tracks as well as a half-mile trail to see the remains of an Ancestral Pueblo farming settlement.

Pioneer History • The mid-19th century Mormon pioneer home built for the Orson Adams Family in 1863 has been restored, with interpretive signs surrounding it. Ferris-Rowley said docents are being trained to offer occasional tours inside the historic building.

Hollywood set • There is also a walk to the site of the "They Came to Cordura" movie set. Though some of it has fallen into ruins, some evidence of the 1954 western starring Gary Cooper, Rita Hayworth, Van Heflin, Tab Hunter and Richard Conte remain.

Equestrian Trail • The White Reef trailhead, designed for equestrian use, also leads to some other area trails for hikers, horseback riders and mountain bikers.

"We're excited about re-opening to the public," said Ferris-Rowley. "Those who have been there before will recognize the changes. The bridges will remediate the safety risks of crossing those low water areas. Every time we would have a flash flood, we would have to go in and evacuate the campground. We didn't want to do that."

She said that because the Mojave Desert, Great Basin and Colorado Plateau ecological zones all come together in this area, it contains the highest number of threatened and endangered species found anywhere in Utah.

But the Red Cliffs area isn't the only interesting place to visit in the area, especially for those who enjoy Utah history.

Civilian Corps camp • Driving out of the camping area and north through the little town of Leeds, stop for a moment to visit the well-preserved Civilian Conservation Corps camp and three remaining buildings.

Some 250 men lived in this camp from 1933 until it closed in 1942. Because they could work year-round in the warmer southern Utah weather, it was one of the larger camps in the state. Interpretive signs and short walks tell about the era.

Silver Reef • Driving further north and then west, visitors can explore Silver Reef, a once-thriving silver mining town that was the biggest town in Washington County from 1875 to 1888.

At one time, the town was home to 1,500 people, six saloons, nine grocery stores, two dance halls, a brewery, billiards hall, bank, drug stores, and Chinese laundry.

Catholic history • Silver Reef is an important historic area for Utah Catholics. Lawrence J. Scanlon, the Salt Lake City diocese's first bishop, came here from Pioche, Nevada, to minister to miners. At one time, the area contained St. John's Church, St. Mary's Catholic School and St. John's Hospital, operated by the Sisters of the Holy Cross.

The story is told of Father Scanlon asking Mormon elders in nearby St. George for a place to hold a Christmas midnight Mass before the church was constructed. The St. George Mormon Tabernacle was used for the occasion with the choir singing the Latin Mass for the miners.

Museum • Today, a museum supported by volunteers and tax-deductible contributions is located inside the oldest Wells Fargo Express Station in existence, a building contracted in 1878.

It contains a vault, artifacts from mining life, photographs of residents who came from 18 countries and 29 U.S. states, a diorama of what the town once looked like and a self-interpretive walking tour.

The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday. When the museum isn't open, trail guides for a walk around what remains of the town are available.

What made Silver Reef so unique was that a vein of silver was found in the sandstone, the only place in the world where this was known to have happened. At one time, there were five mills in the area to refine the silver and prepare it for shipment.

Those who enjoy seeing historic cemeteries might want to take the short drive from town to see the Catholic and Protestant cemeteries, which contain many weathered and old headstones from the mining era.

wharton@sltrib.com

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