This article is excerpted from the Utah Eats newsletter, compiled by Kolbie Peterson, The Salt Lake Tribune’s food and drink reporter. To get the full newsletter in your inbox every Wednesday, become a subscriber by going to sltrib.com/newsletters.
Hello, Eaters!
A couple of weeks ago, I wrote a story about the Italian restaurant Matteo moving from its old location near Liberty Park to new digs in downtown Salt Lake City, so I thought I would go check out the new location and report back.
Owner and founder Matteo Sogne, who’s originally from Italy, told me the old Matteo had been too loud and too crowded, unable to accommodate last-minute reservations or regulars wanting to come in on a busy evening. After a year of being open, Matteo had outgrown itself, he said.
He said he debated whether he would open a second restaurant or just move his operation, and in the end decided to move. “I just don’t believe in having two restaurants,” Sogne said. “I want to have the quality that I have.”
(Bethany Baker | The Salt Lake Tribune) Tables are set up for dinner service at Matteo Ristorante Italiano in Salt Lake City on Monday, Dec. 2, 2024.
With the new building, “I just wanted to make a better ambiance,” Sogne said. The location is almost twice the size of the old one, with soundproofed 15-foot ceilings and large windows.
I’ve been to the old Matteo, and I agreed with Sogne when he said it was too buzzy. Wanting to check out the new spot, which is at 77 W. 200 South, I visited the new Matteo with my dining companion last week.
Wow, what a difference in the two experiences. First, parking is a breeze now, with complimentary valet service. Inside, the restaurant is at the perfect sound level: quiet but not too quiet.
For our meal, we started off with the whipped brie appetizer, which you can read more about in the “Dish of the Week” section of this newsletter.
(Bethany Baker | The Salt Lake Tribune) A plate of risotto sits on a table at Matteo Ristorante Italiano in Salt Lake City on Monday, Dec. 2, 2024.
For my main course, I ordered the risotto Modena ($32), named for Sogne’s hometown. He said this risotto “tastes like home,” and I could definitely tell how special it was. The main ingredients were Acquerello rice and Parmigiano Reggiano, and on top, Sogne drizzled 58-year-old balsamic vinegar made by his grandfather.
I loved it — it tasted amazing and the rice grains were tender but separated. But I did need to add some salt and pepper, and it wasn’t enough for a meal.
The menu at Matteo separates most of its hot food into “primi” (first) and “secondi” (second) courses, and after doing some research, I learned that this structure is traditional for Italian meals. According to this blog from Salt Lake City’s Cucina Toscana, the “primi” course is where you find foods like pasta and risotto. The “secondi” course is where you find more protein-heavy foods like beef, chicken and seafood — like my companion’s brasato (braised beef, $36), which was served with a bourbon honey reduction and was delicious.
(Bethany Baker | The Salt Lake Tribune) A plate of Brasato sits on a table at Matteo Ristorante Italiano in Salt Lake City on Monday, Dec. 2, 2024.
So while I left Matteo that night thinking the risotto had called out for some protein or vegetable, it turns out I was just unfamiliar with classic Italian dining. Matteo hadn’t done anything wrong; I had just stopped ordering before the meal was over.
Live deliciously,
Kolbie
P.S. Matteo Sogne also told me that he’s planning on opening a sandwich and pasta shop in the old Toasters space on 300 South between Main and State streets. Watch for that in the spring.
Food News
• Chubby Baker — maker of Asian-inspired doughnuts and other desserts, located in Salt Lake City, Sandy and Orem — has released its new flavors for December, according to an Instagram post, and they look decadent. First is the eggnog creme brulee, with a hard shell top and eggnog pudding filling. Next is the almond joy, which has a coconut filling and is topped with chocolate ganache and sliced almonds. Finally, there’s the Christmas sugar cookie ring, which is topped with vanilla buttercream and coated with sugar cookie crumble.
Closings:
• In an Instagram post, Laziz Kitchen announced it had made the “hard decision” to close its Midvale location as of Dec. 1. “Although this feels like a big change, we remain strong in maintaining our values and focusing on the success of our other two restaurants, along with growing our packaged product line,” the post said. Laziz Kitchen’s other two locations are in Central Ninth at 912 S. Jefferson St., and in downtown Salt Lake City at 152 E. 200 South.
Booze (and Drink!) News
(Bethany Baker | The Salt Lake Tribune) Patrons fill Thieves Guild, a new fantasy-themed cidery that opened in October, in Salt Lake City on Friday, Nov. 8, 2024.
On Friday, Salt Lake City fantasy-themed bar Thieves Guild Cidery was scheduled to release its first line of house-made ciders and meads on draft, according to an Instagram post. “We’ve been working hard back here every day to get these properly made, and we are excited to finally share our drinks with you,” the post said. Thieves Guild is also now open on Mondays. Its new hours are Monday through Thursday, 2 p.m. to 2 a.m.; Friday through Sunday, noon to 2 a.m.
Dish of the Week
(Bethany Baker | The Salt Lake Tribune) A plate of whipped brie sits on a table at Matteo Ristorante Italiano in Salt Lake City on Monday, Dec. 2, 2024.
During my visit to Matteo’s new location, my dining companion and I ordered the whipped brie appetizer ($17), and what a treat it was. Studded with walnuts and raisins on top and accompanied by crostini and fresh focaccia, this caramelized brie had all the flavor of the classic cheese, but with the rind removed and air whipped into it.
You can be dainty and spread it on your bread with a spoon, or you can forgo utensils and just scoop up this dessert-like cheese with the bread itself. The raisins added touches of sweetness to the savory cheese that I really enjoyed.
