When COVID-19 derailed the nascent Kin Sen Asian Noodle Bar in 2020, noodle lovers lost one of the finest in town. For some, that might have been that, but for owner Pornpimon Prathummas (who goes by the name O), it was only the beginning.
Prathummas began her career in the restaurant industry amid the kitchens of Los Angeles – most notably at the well-regarded Thai eatery Chan Dara (a recipient of LA Weekly’s Thai Select award). Skip forward to 2006 and a move to Utah brought about a new culinary direction, a 12-year stint under Valter Nassi — first at Cucina Toscana, then moving with the famous restaurateur at Valter’s Osteria.
Leaving Valter’s, Prathummas first solo outing in Salt Lake City was Ekamai Thai. She eventually opened three locations across the Salt Lake Valley. She sold Ekamai to new operators, and returned to Thailand.
Thankfully for fans of her work here in Utah, the move didn’t stick. The charms of the Beehive proved too strong.
On her return, the ill-fated first iteration of Kin Sen fizzed to life in the old Tin Angel location, on 400 South across from Pioneer Park in downtown Salt Lake City. The brief tenure was well received, but alas, like many a budding business, COVID had other plans.
Undeterred, Kao Thai in Millcreek came next, before Kin Sen 2.0 booted back up in 2023 – taking over the East Bench space left vacant by Nuch’s Pizzeria, at 2819 S. 2300 East, Millcreek.
I initially dropped by back in February and was instantly head over heels in noodle heaven.
Prathummas credited her time under Nassi as both catalyst and education for her own endeavors. The most vivid demonstration can be tasted at Kao Thai: A lusciously tender short rib in rich curry, a direct inspiration from Valter’s osso buco.
But I’m here to talk about Kin Sen, and why some recent updates make this another must-eat spot.
Sen yai is a stellar way to start a meal at Kin Sen: A slippery snarl of flat rice noodles, sauced with dark soy and capped with a golden tumble of ground pork and tofu. I’m also partial to the spicy chicken dumplings – which, in fairness, afford relatively mild bites. Those with more robust palates can reach for the condiment caddy, replete with all the capsaicin and umami you need.
One of the signature threads that link together all of Prathummas’ menus is a keen alertness to detail and, critically, flavor. Familiar Thai curries leap from their bowls with a newfound sense of purpose – I’ve tasted no better examples in Utah. Case in point are the captivating boat noodles, a specialty of Kin Sen and, as far as I know, unparalleled anywhere else in the state.
(Stuart Melling | Gastronomic SLC) The boat noodles — which feature beef short rib, meatballs, oxtail and chicharron — at Kin Sen Asian Noodle Bar in Salt Lake City.
These are mammoth pots of protein and rice noodle and broth – itself the work of at least five hours – offering an alluring note of cinnamon throughout. A variety of preparations are available, but my pick would be the boat combination: A mix of beef short rib, meatballs and brawny hunks of oxtail. Crispy chicharron are one of the final finishes, alongside aromatic herbs and crisp bean sprouts.
One of my favorite recent additions to the Kin Sen menu is the khao soi, a northern Thai/Laotian dish again meticulously executed under Prathummas’ watch. A fennel/anise diffused Thai yellow curry is the base for a duo of noodles – both a tangled crispy crown, and a softer pile of egg noodles lurking in the gravy. A giant chicken thigh and leg come next, as do sharp pickled greens that cut through the coconut-rich sauce. A spritz from a slice of fresh lime and you’re good to dig in. It’s comfort food of the highest order.
Other new dishes from a menu update include kao ka moo (braised pork leg in black bean sauce), curry puffs (both shiitake and chicken varieties), a Thai-informed spin on sukiyaki and deep-fried garlic shrimp.
If you plan to swing by with friends, another must eat is the cheekily underplayed sweet combo. The dish relies on the pizza oven left by the former tenants, and moments after ordering, the restaurant fills with the aroma of sweetly toasting bread. The dish is centered around a fort-like construction of Japanese-style honey toast, garrisoned with ice cream, mango, sticky rice, roti bread and a drizzle of this and that. The dish is a showstopper that turns heads as it heads to the table. It’s plenty to feed a small group.
(Stuart Melling | Gastronomic SLC) The "sweet combo" — which features Japanese-style honey toast, ice cream, mango, sticky rice and roti bread — at Kin Sen Asian Noodle Bar in Salt Lake City.
Since my first visit to Kin Sen earlier in the year, there have been other changes. A secluded rear patio came online for the summer months, and a new liquor license means beer, wine and sake are now poured as well. Never one to rest on her laurels, I’ve spied a ramen birria in the works, and Prathummas tells me that a new chef from Thailand should arrive soon to bolster the kitchen team. His particular expertise? Roasted duck. Watch this space.
Stuart Melling is owner and editor of the food website Gastronomic SLC, a partner with The Tribune in a content-sharing agreement.