Mustard is having its moment.
The all-American yellow version has always been a favorite for hot dogs and pretzels. But restaurants and caterers now are making hand-crafted mustards with fruits, vegetables, beer and even wine to add zing to food.
Bon Appetit recently named mustard its favorite condiment.
"It's sharp, reliable and ready to tackle whatever sandwich, huge hunk of meat or salad you throw its way," editors wrote in the magazine's online newsletter that also included 45 "epic" mustard recipes. "Mustard's mega-versatile, and pretty much the best spread there is."
Mustard also was a featured topic at The Art of Catering Food, the annual conference of the International Caterers Association, last month at the University of Utah's Rice Eccles Stadium. Some 350 chefs and caterers from around the world gathered to learn new techniques and menu ideas.
Cade Nagy, owner and executive chef of Catering by Design, in Denver, was the presenter for "It's Not Easy Being Yellow: The Arts of Pickled Seeds and Mustards." Mustards, he said, can be used for braised meats, sauces, salads, deviled eggs, charcuterie and "anywhere that requires a splash of acid."
Mustard has come a long way in 2,000 years since the Romans first ground mustard seeds and mixed them with unfermented grape juice, called "must."
Today, there are thousands of varieties of what's become mustard made with three different seeds. Yellow (or white) has the most mellow flavor, while brown and black are hotter. Depending on what liquids or other ingredients are added, the flavor can be mild or hot, sweet or pungent, smooth or grainy.
Nagy, for example, shared a sweet, spicy peach and habanero mustard recipe with attendees. (See box for recipe.)
Beer is another popular addition. At Gracie's Bar in Salt Lake City, the Polygamy Porter mustard has been on the menu for about a year, served with the bar's pretzel appetizer as well as its buttermilk chicken strips. It's made with stone ground mustard, whole mustard seeds, molasses, horseradish and Wasatch Brewery's famed porter, said sous chef Marcus Washington. "The beer adds a lot of flavor."
For many years, Deer Valley Fireside diners have enjoyed the sweet flavor of the kitchen's fig grain mustard, made with yellow and brown mustard seeds, vinegar, sugar and dried black mission figs. Guests can buy a 4-ounce bottle of the condiment for $5.75.
With so many options, here are some mustard basics to help you understand this versatile condiment:
Yellow • Made from mild yellow — or white — mustard seeds as well as vinegar, water and spices. Best on hot dogs and ham sandwiches.
Dijon • Originating in the town of Dijon, France, this pale yellow mustard is made from brown or black mustard seeds mixed with white wine, unfermented grape juice and seasonings. Its clean, sharp taste works well in vinaigrettes and sauces.
Whole grain • The seeds have not been ground fully, creating a thick, coarse texture and visible seeds. Sometime called coarse-ground or stone-ground mustard.
Spicy brown • Made with brown mustard seeds, but less vinegar. The lower acidity makes the heat more pronounced.
Hot mustard • The sinus-burning hot mustard is usually associated with Chinese food. It's ground mustard and water — no acid to tame the heat.
Honey • Honey adds sweetness to the usually hot mustard seed. Fruit will have the same effect.
German • Mittelscharf — which means medium hot — is the most popular mustard in Germany, but recipes vary by region. Some add brown sugar or applesauce for a sweetness, others include horseradish to make it extra spicy. No matter the heat level, eat it with grilled bratwurst.
English • Extremely hot, it's usually made with ground mustard seeds, flour and turmeric. The most well-known brand is Colman's.
Beer infused • Using dark beer — think porters and stouts — in place of vinegar adds character and complexity to mustard.
kathys@sltrib.com
Scott Sommerdorf | The Salt Lake Tribune Mustard is having its moment. In addition to the all-American yellow for hot dogs and pretzels, now chefs are making hand-crafted mustards with fruit, beer and even wine.
Scott Sommerdorf | The Salt Lake Tribune Mustard is having its moment. In addition to the all-American yellow for hot dogs and pretzels, now chefs are making hand-crafted mustards with fruit, beer and even wine.
