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If you believe, as I do, that giving new life to old buildings adds character to a city, then you'll celebrate the evolution of the historic spot that is now home to a bar called Twist.

Housed in a 100-year-old space in downtown Salt Lake City that once served as a power station for adjacent buildings, Twist is fun and funky, with personality in spades. The owners describe it as a bar, bistro and social club, which seems intended to emphasize a menu that is more ambitious than your average watering hole.

I applaud that ambition, although not everything on the menu was up to snuff. Still, I hope Twist can measure up to its potential by either tweaking the menu or working out some kinks in the kitchen.

But let's focus first on what works at Twist, which opened last July. It has a patio surrounded by the historic half-block's fine, old buildings, which will certainly be jammed as soon as the weather warms enough. Inside, the two-story space offers distinct spaces with very different vibes.

The upstairs is an expansive room with dining tables and a partially visible kitchen. An attractive bar along one wall offers additional seating, as does a counter that fronts the kitchen. Several TVs hanging on the walls can be seen from just about any vantage point. From this floor, you can look over the railing and see the lower level, which has its own bar and a couple of rooms that can seat up to 20 people.

That space is darker, more intimate and visually interesting thanks to remnants of the old boilers that once heated several buildings in the area. It boasts a pool table and a room full of pinball games. All told, Twist is about 4,000 square feet, which feels quite roomy.

The cocktail menu is mostly familiar and reasonably priced, from martinis ($7.50) to greyhounds ($4.50). But there are also unique concoctions, including some made from locally produced spirits, such as a Mormon mule ($6.75), a blend of Porter's Fire Liqueur (cinnamon-flavored, made in Ogden), a dash of orange juice and ginger beer. The Beehive Bee Sting ($9) features Utah's Beehive Reserve gin, a little OJ and black lager.

A decent-sized beer list favors local breweries, from Epic to Squatters to Uinta, and there are a dozen or so beers on draft. Ten wines are available by the glass or bottle.

The food menu also allows many choices, ranging from appetizers and small plates to soups and salads, sandwiches and a smattering of entrées. It's a lot to pull off, day in and day out.

Some are food items you'd expect to see: a burger ($9), nachos ($10) and chicken strips with fries ($10), the latter being one of the best things I tried. The breading was light and crisp and the chicken was tender. But other stuff goes above and beyond, sometimes successfully, other times not.

Honestly, I don't know how many bar-hopping 20-somethings would order duck confit, one of the menu's small-plate offerings ($14), or even know what it is. I'm certain I didn't during my hearty partying days. But it was one of the underachievers at Twist, which reportedly wants to attract a diverse crowd, presumably including those who appreciate a good duck confit.

This confit consisted of shredded duck piled atop a vegetable "hash" of potatoes, carrots and sweet red peppers. But some of the duck was dry and stringy, which just shouldn't happen to fowl simmered in fat. And the hash was a bland blend of vegetables that appeared to be boiled rather than roasted, as the menu claimed.

Another disappointment was an entrée of boneless, skinless chicken breast ($19.50), which was overcooked to bone dry. It was only saved by the accompanying crisp risotto cake studded with peas and mushrooms and sitting atop a pool of tangy tomato sauce. Forget the chicken: I'd take that risotto cake and sauce as an appetizer any day. Other entrées include a New York steak and pan-seared salmon (both $19.50) and pappardelle with a choice of protein ($14).

Surprising and successful were two versions of ceviche, the classic for $12 and "Twisted" for $15. The classic offered fresh-tasting white fish and red pepper "cooked" just right in a citrus marinade. The Twisted variety was elevated by diced albacore paired with watermelon and candied orange peel, which added a delightful bittersweet tang. The corn chips are house made and delicious.

Another success was Twist's version of a BLT, made with crisp pancetta and enriched with a schmear of tangy goat cheese flecked with cracked pepper ($10). Every element was good, from the sliced tomatoes to the brioche that added a hint of sweetness. (There are other bread choices, but I would recommend the brioche.) Sandwiches come with a choice of fries, potato chips, salad or soup. The fries are good, but if you like salad, the house version is chock full of fresh mixed greens with nary a hint of iceberg lettuce.

The club sandwich, which also features pancetta and turkey ($10), was a respectable rendition. And I appreciate that Twist offers a vegan sandwich in the form of a falafel burger ($9). It was pretty dry, however, so I'd suggest loading it up with add-ons in the form of roasted red pepper and avocado to supplement the lettuce, tomato and hummus or goat cheese that come with it.

Another surprise, but not so successful, was shishito peppers ($9). The concept is sound: peppers stuffed with chile pepper cream cheese, lightly dusted with panko and fried. The problem was that the cheese was in short supply and some of the peppers were so large and tough they were almost inedible.

Service was friendly but can be slow, and one night our drink order got mixed up but wasn't corrected on the check. On a different visit, one of the items came out much later than the others, a faux pas the house tried to compensate for with extra fries.

Twist is a comfortable, interesting spot for a drink and/or to watch sports. And I salute the management for trying to raise the bar on bar food. Hopefully, that bar will continue to rise. —

HH

Twist Bar and Bistro

Food • HH

Mood • HHhj

Service • Hhj

Noise • bb

Twist has moved into the space once occupied by Lazy Moon Pub after an extensive remodel, creating a two-in-one watering hole with a menu that aims to rise above usual pub fare. Both varieties of ceviche are very good, including the housemade chips, and the pancetta sandwich is a smart upgrade of a BLT. After you eat upstairs, check out the game room and historic boiler elements in the more clublike lower floor.

Location • 32 Exchange Place, Salt Lake City; 801-322-3200

Online • twistslc.com

Hours • Daily, 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.

Children's menu • No (must be 21)

Prices • $$-$$$

Liquor • Full service

Reservations • Yes, except after 9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday

Takeout • Yes

Wheelchair access • No

Outdoor dining • Yes

On-site parking • No

Credit cards • Yes